Resin Table in Time Out NY

Electrofork Resin Table
The table, as seen in Time Out New York

Here are some additional photos, or see it here in its pre-resin-filled phase. Two type-cabinet drawers framed in oak and mounted atop a hardwood pedestal base.

(Want to own this table? Email liz [at] electrofork [dot] com to inquire…)


I’ve received a number of emails and questions regarding procedures and tips for working with resin, so here are some details and tips for those who are interested:

To make one with clean edges, look up information about casting with resin. I’ve only made tables that are contained. I would suggest finding something to go around the edges at least, though, as the edges will likely not be very beautiful, or as clear as the surface. I made a table awhile back for which I used some aluminum (bendable) edging, and it looked quite sharp.

For my resin table I went through about six gallons of resin- very expensive! So I used a less-expensive resin for most of it (Cast-n-craft or somet such– not a one-to-one ratio), and then Envirotex Lite (a one-to-one very clear resin) for the final layers. The amazing thing was that although the cheaper resin has less clarity, once I poured the Envirotex on, it all cleared up very nicely. I assume it was mainly the top coat of each previous layer that was looking cloudy.

Most important: read the instructions on whatever resin you use VERY CAREFULLY. That includes paying attention to stirring instructions, maximum depth per layer, and usually wiping with Isopropol alcohol before pouring next layer, ALso be ventilated and don’t stay in the room longer than you must; to remove bubbles generally requires a lot of attention during the first hour or so, but you can leave for ten minutes, come back and check in, and repeat as necessary. Removing surface bubbles usually involves wither exhaling on the surface or using a propane torch (much better, especially for large projects). It’s a time-consuming and finicky procedure. Also make sure whatever you are pouring in is SEALED so none of the resin drips out. Some of the resins have instructions on sanding if necessary, but try to avoid the need for it as it can affect clarity.

One final note about the layering: I poured some of my early layers at more than the suggested depth, and it did cause some bubbling around the larger, more intricate objects within. So watch out for that. You can do some stirring around and poking at bubbles with a plastic or (sealed or painted) wooden stick, such as the end of a paintbrush handle, to bring bubbles to the surface.

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